Backyard Ponds Attract Wildlife
Even in small backyards, standing water almost always attracts a great variety of wildlife. Song birds bathe in all kinds of puddles, and deeper, year-round pools harbor many types of insects, frogs, and turtles. Larger ponds may attract ducks, raccoons, and other wetland-dwelling wildlife in the suburbs as well as rural settings.
The best backyard water features for wildlife in cities and suburbs are six to 24 inches deep and have some of the vegetation characteristics of natural wetlands –emergent plants like bulrush or cattail, and submergent and floating-leaved species such as water lilies and pondweeds. Size and shape is not critical, but larger ponds are certainly more attractive to certain wildlife than similar smaller ones. The Michigan Wildlife Habitat Foundation’s Bengel Wildlife Center has a tiny, plastic-lined pool less than six feet in diameter in its model urban backyard for wildlife. That pond held two kinds of frogs and an 8-inch long northern water snake as well as a host of insects, and song birds frequented the tiny spot last summer. A 30 by 40-foot pond in the Center’s model suburban backyard held four kinds of turtles and several frog species, and was occasionally used by ducks.
There are few locations where some type of pond is impractical. Plastic and rubber liners can be installed if the existing soil will not hold water. In most backyards, using a liner will be less expensive than bringing in clay. Small, rigid plastic shells are available in a wide range of performed shapes for less than $120. The one in the Bengel Wildlife Center’s model urban backyard cost only $69. It has a 24-inch deep center and 12-inch deep “shelves.” Such “instand ponds” can be installed in a few hours. Some people prefer to place the shell on the existing ground, or set only the deeper part of the shell below ground level, then use dirt and/or stone to form a berm around the top part of the plastic. This results in a raised pool that may better compliment other landscape features such as elevated flower beds or lawn seating. Besides aesthetic concerns, there may be other practical reasons why a raised pool is preferable. It may be easier to keep unwanted leaves and grass-clippings out of the water, or it may be very difficult to dig in the existing soil. It makes little, if any, difference to wildlife how much of the pool is below the original ground level.
For larger ponds, non-rigid liners of polyvinyl chloride (PVC), polyethylene, or some type of rubber can be used. As in the case of the rigid plastic shells, the liners can be used above or below the existing ground level. They range in thickness from 0.02 to 0.03 inches and are often available in six to 15-foot-wide rolls. Businesses such as Price & Company of Grand Rapids also sell custom-ordered sheets. The one used in the Bengel Wildlife Center’s model suburban backyard was 43 by 50 feet and cost less than $650. Installation of the liner cost an additional $300, bringing the total cost to about $950.
When installing a non-rigid liner, it is very important that the ground or excavated hole be free of roots, irregular-shaped stones and other sharp objects that could puncture the liner. At some sites it is necessary to spread a few inches of sand or place a polyester underlay between the liner and the ground as a cushion. After the liner is in place, at least one foot of soil is spread over it. Even the part of the liner on the top of the basin must be covered with dirt to prevent damage from the sun’s ultra-violet rays.
One obvious advantage of a non-rigid liner is that the installer can vary the depth of the pond, creating underwater humps, deep holes, or even above-water islands. Most people like shallow shelves and/or gentle slopes. A 3 on 1 slope (three feet of horizontal distance per foot of depth) uses four or five feet of liner per side. Therefore, a 40-foot-wide liner will allow for a pond surface 30-32 feet wide. The more irregular the design, the more surface area is “lost” as liner is used.
Regardless of the type of liner used, there are many options for “edging” the pool. Schools, nature centers, and business expecting a lot of foot-traffic often place geotextile fabric (filter cloth) covered by wood chips or pebbles around the edge. Where landscape aesthetics is important, flat stones or timber decking adds a nice touch. Some landscape architects recommend grass with random stone slabs (at intervals) rather than a continuous hard surface. Where a more natural look is preferred, a strip around the pond can be planted to prairie wildflowers or simply left unmowed.
Ponds or pools with liners will gradually fill with rainwater, but most landowners like to add water with a garden hose. Chemicals in “city water” are not a big concern. Topsoil and/or soil from ditches or unregulated wetlands can be placed in the pond either before or after the pond is filled with water. Wetland-associated vegetation may colonize the pond naturally from roots or dormant seeds in the soil, or desirable plants can be added directly. There are many businesses that sell plants for water gardens – some at unnecessarily high prices. For small ponds less than 50 feet in diameter, it is seldom necessary to spend more than $100 to get a good mix of plants started. Water lilies can be purchased as tubers or rootstocks through mail order suppliers such as Wildlife Nurseries, Inc. of Oshkosh, Wisconsin at a fraction of the cost of potted water lilies. Roots of many other types of visually attractive plants can be similarly purchased at low cost. Planting is very easy and does not require the services of a professional landscaper.
Some of the more readily-available plants for ponds or water gardens include: green bulrush, bur-reed, cardinal flower, duck potato, blue-flag iris, swamp milkweed, pickeral weed, water plantain, white water lily, spatterdock (yellow water lily), and woolgrass. Cattail is also easy to obtain, but has a tendency to spread and dominate the pond. These can all be transplanted throughout most of the growing season as “plugs” containing part or all of the roots. There are some special tricks involved with transplanting water lily rootstocks, and it may take a couple of years for the water lilies to grow. Nurseries that carry water lilies are usually willing to share advice, and there are some good books on the subject. A good source of related information is “ “A Creative Step-By-Step Guide To The Water Garden, by Yvonne Rees and Neil Sutherland, Combe Books, Tien Wah Press Ltd., Singapore, 1994.
Dr. Patrick J. Rusz
Director of Wildlife Programs
The best backyard water features for wildlife in cities and suburbs are six to 24 inches deep and have some of the vegetation characteristics of natural wetlands –emergent plants like bulrush or cattail, and submergent and floating-leaved species such as water lilies and pondweeds. Size and shape is not critical, but larger ponds are certainly more attractive to certain wildlife than similar smaller ones. The Michigan Wildlife Habitat Foundation’s Bengel Wildlife Center has a tiny, plastic-lined pool less than six feet in diameter in its model urban backyard for wildlife. That pond held two kinds of frogs and an 8-inch long northern water snake as well as a host of insects, and song birds frequented the tiny spot last summer. A 30 by 40-foot pond in the Center’s model suburban backyard held four kinds of turtles and several frog species, and was occasionally used by ducks.
There are few locations where some type of pond is impractical. Plastic and rubber liners can be installed if the existing soil will not hold water. In most backyards, using a liner will be less expensive than bringing in clay. Small, rigid plastic shells are available in a wide range of performed shapes for less than $120. The one in the Bengel Wildlife Center’s model urban backyard cost only $69. It has a 24-inch deep center and 12-inch deep “shelves.” Such “instand ponds” can be installed in a few hours. Some people prefer to place the shell on the existing ground, or set only the deeper part of the shell below ground level, then use dirt and/or stone to form a berm around the top part of the plastic. This results in a raised pool that may better compliment other landscape features such as elevated flower beds or lawn seating. Besides aesthetic concerns, there may be other practical reasons why a raised pool is preferable. It may be easier to keep unwanted leaves and grass-clippings out of the water, or it may be very difficult to dig in the existing soil. It makes little, if any, difference to wildlife how much of the pool is below the original ground level.
For larger ponds, non-rigid liners of polyvinyl chloride (PVC), polyethylene, or some type of rubber can be used. As in the case of the rigid plastic shells, the liners can be used above or below the existing ground level. They range in thickness from 0.02 to 0.03 inches and are often available in six to 15-foot-wide rolls. Businesses such as Price & Company of Grand Rapids also sell custom-ordered sheets. The one used in the Bengel Wildlife Center’s model suburban backyard was 43 by 50 feet and cost less than $650. Installation of the liner cost an additional $300, bringing the total cost to about $950.
When installing a non-rigid liner, it is very important that the ground or excavated hole be free of roots, irregular-shaped stones and other sharp objects that could puncture the liner. At some sites it is necessary to spread a few inches of sand or place a polyester underlay between the liner and the ground as a cushion. After the liner is in place, at least one foot of soil is spread over it. Even the part of the liner on the top of the basin must be covered with dirt to prevent damage from the sun’s ultra-violet rays.
One obvious advantage of a non-rigid liner is that the installer can vary the depth of the pond, creating underwater humps, deep holes, or even above-water islands. Most people like shallow shelves and/or gentle slopes. A 3 on 1 slope (three feet of horizontal distance per foot of depth) uses four or five feet of liner per side. Therefore, a 40-foot-wide liner will allow for a pond surface 30-32 feet wide. The more irregular the design, the more surface area is “lost” as liner is used.
Regardless of the type of liner used, there are many options for “edging” the pool. Schools, nature centers, and business expecting a lot of foot-traffic often place geotextile fabric (filter cloth) covered by wood chips or pebbles around the edge. Where landscape aesthetics is important, flat stones or timber decking adds a nice touch. Some landscape architects recommend grass with random stone slabs (at intervals) rather than a continuous hard surface. Where a more natural look is preferred, a strip around the pond can be planted to prairie wildflowers or simply left unmowed.
Ponds or pools with liners will gradually fill with rainwater, but most landowners like to add water with a garden hose. Chemicals in “city water” are not a big concern. Topsoil and/or soil from ditches or unregulated wetlands can be placed in the pond either before or after the pond is filled with water. Wetland-associated vegetation may colonize the pond naturally from roots or dormant seeds in the soil, or desirable plants can be added directly. There are many businesses that sell plants for water gardens – some at unnecessarily high prices. For small ponds less than 50 feet in diameter, it is seldom necessary to spend more than $100 to get a good mix of plants started. Water lilies can be purchased as tubers or rootstocks through mail order suppliers such as Wildlife Nurseries, Inc. of Oshkosh, Wisconsin at a fraction of the cost of potted water lilies. Roots of many other types of visually attractive plants can be similarly purchased at low cost. Planting is very easy and does not require the services of a professional landscaper.
Some of the more readily-available plants for ponds or water gardens include: green bulrush, bur-reed, cardinal flower, duck potato, blue-flag iris, swamp milkweed, pickeral weed, water plantain, white water lily, spatterdock (yellow water lily), and woolgrass. Cattail is also easy to obtain, but has a tendency to spread and dominate the pond. These can all be transplanted throughout most of the growing season as “plugs” containing part or all of the roots. There are some special tricks involved with transplanting water lily rootstocks, and it may take a couple of years for the water lilies to grow. Nurseries that carry water lilies are usually willing to share advice, and there are some good books on the subject. A good source of related information is “ “A Creative Step-By-Step Guide To The Water Garden, by Yvonne Rees and Neil Sutherland, Combe Books, Tien Wah Press Ltd., Singapore, 1994.
Dr. Patrick J. Rusz
Director of Wildlife Programs